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At Assaggia, tucked away in a quiet street near the Piazza del Popolo, the risk of gustatory overload is mitigated by the menu, which offers many of Rome’s greatest hits in tapas-sized portions. The decor – a sleek, lounge-like room with bar and terrace – might be contemporary, but the kitchen is fired by the city’s rich culinary history.

Supplì are never delicate, but Assaggia’s version is as close as they get: crisp and greaseless, an intense beef ragù concealing molten strands of mozzarella. A classic carbonara features short tubes of excellent pasta dressed with beaten egg, pecorino, Parmesan and shards of guanciale (cured pig’s cheek); sticky, slow-cooked oxtail is bathed in a glossy, deep-flavoured sauce.

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